Dewi's Trains,
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Around America by train:
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The Crescent (again)The initial route from Atlanta lay almost directly west to Anniston, Alabama. But the track was the most winding that we had so far encountered! it was as bad as that north of Brisbane: and there, the Queensland government was straightening it out - like holding both ends and pulling hard. But for us, the train was quite slow, and wiggled one way and then the other. It rained continuously, but there is nowhere better to be on a rainy day than in a warm, dry train, watching the soggy countryside go by. At one point there was an announcement: "We have crossed the state line into Alabama, we are now in the Central time zone. The time is now 10:44 am". In spite of this, our stomachs were still on Atlanta time, so we had an early lunch of the baguette, ham and cheese we had bought. The pocket knife that our son Colin had given us years ago, when we'd started travelling, was invaluable. Of course, we couldn't have carried it on board an aircraft. We'd expected to see agriculture, possibly cotton growing. but there was no
sign. At all times we were either in towns or in forest, mostly deciduous, but
very green. There were a few meadows, but only once did we see animals: a few
cows lying down - a sure sign of rain, as though it weren't raining already. We
noticed a few other things: The cab and front of Norfolk Southern locomotives in
black and white livery look like Darth Vader in his mask and cowl. Tuscaloosa is
a real Amtrak station but the train stops right across the road blocking the
level crossing. On a long-distance train, one gets into conversation with other
people. We were chatting with a woman who was returning home with a small girl
(possibly her grand-daughter). She lived in New Orleans: on hearing that we were
to stay in the French Quarter her advice to us was "Don't go out at night". This
was somewhat disconcerting.
New OrleansOn approaching New Orleans, you can see the high buildings of downtown long
before you get there. What happens to the train is that it passes to one side of
the SuperBowl, then backs up past the other side, entering the terminal station
rear end first. After the advice we'd been given, rather than look for buses, we
took a taxi to the hotel, cutting through parking garages to avoid busy Bourbon
St. We started the next day without breakfast as the dining room was closed, so we started walking towards the riverfront. At Jackson Square, at the Brewery building, there was a food court. And it had a fried-chicken stand open. And the fried-chicken stand did offer eggs and toast and coffee. Which was just as well, for we needed re-fuelling! After that we "tripped over" the Riverfront trolley line. A chance conversation told us about 3-day passes, so back we went to the office that sold tour and cruise tickets. There was nothing to show where passes might be purchased, and fact I lined up at the wrong window only to be passed over to another queue. Finally, armed with passes, we took the trolley to the end of the line at the end of the riverfront walkway, then to the end nearer the convention centre, and finally back to Canal Street. The ferry dock is near there, though not signposted, but by asking the driver of a car obviously in line for the ferry, we found the foot-passenger entry and rode the ferry across to Algiers. By now, the rain was tipping down. We rode the ferry right back again. Threads of cloud dipping down from the black clouds above were beginning to move in a circle, and we were wondering whether a twister were developing, along with the lightning, thunder, and driving rain. But it didn't develop, luckily. Back at the Canal Street dock, we tried to find a way to get to the covered Riverside Walk without getting soaked. We ran towards a streetcar which stopped for us in the middle of an intersection, and which took us in the right direction. The driver made a special stop for us and opened the door right at the steps to the covered walk. We made a dash! After lunch, the rain had stopped and re-started and was coming in squalls.
We tried not to get too wet, and went in one door of the casino, worked our way
between rows of one-armed bandits and out the other door, avoiding getting
soaked in two ways. The Canal Street trolley drifted towards us and we tried to
board it, but it was about to reverse. The driver told us to get it on its way
back, so we crossed the median and waited in the shelter at the stop for the
opposite direction. After a very long time, the When the rain had now stopped (once more), we walked up Canal Street and found the Charles Street trolley line. When the green car came, we climbed aboard, the pass giving us an advantage - we could board while lesser mortals were struggling with dollar bills and quarters. The Charles street line gives a magnificent ride through the garden district, seeing the big houses, the two universities side-by-side, and the gardens at the entrance to the zoo. We even saw our driver of the Riverfront car! She took the Charles car to where she had parked her mini-van. At the end of the line, we, and half the passengers, walked over to the next car to leave and re-boarded for the journey back to town. At the corner of Charles St. we got off and went to "The Trolley Café" but they only served full meals. They did direct us to the "CC" café where we got our coffee and snack. Then we got the next car back to town. Walked along Bourbon Street (dirty and smelly) to Conti, and to our hotel. Sat in the delightful courtyard at the back of the hotel, and wished that the bar still operated so that we could sip a drink in the courtyard. Took stock, decided on what tours to try for, and went in search of supper. Looked at the dining room of the "sister" hotel, the St. Louis, decided it would be good for breakfast but not for dinner. Re-stocked on cookies at the drugstore on Royal St., and had fish and chips at TGIF. Neither of us could finish! We were full. Monday morning: arose a little late and went
to the "sister" hotel, St. Louis, for breakfast, in a courtyard with a
translucent fabric cover to it. Very satisfying. Click on thumbnail for larger picture. |
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